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Topic Summary

Posted by: GregL
« on: February 09, 2019, 07:31:03 PM »

Finally sent block to the machine shop today
Posted by: stony
« on: January 01, 2019, 09:36:08 AM »

Something to read while you wait http://flatfenderfever.com/id8.html if your rod bolts had PAL nuts on them you can get new ones from aircraft spruce.com, way less expensive.
Posted by: 64CJ5
« on: December 31, 2018, 08:49:39 PM »

I have been watching your progress, please keep us informed.
Back to the wheel studs.  My '52 M38 was missing one stud on each wheel on the left side.  Some one had problems in the past.  All wheel studs are right hand now.  Chrysler had the same set up on wheel studs years ago, I do not know about other makers.
Posted by: GregL
« on: December 31, 2018, 04:01:41 PM »

Almost ready for the machine shop, time for cleaning and initial detail inspection
Posted by: gmcjr
« on: December 19, 2018, 09:00:09 PM »

Quote
Quote
Also the piston won't come out the bottom. The bore has worn where the piston travels and the bottom of the bore is the smallest. They come out the top.

Yes they will� :D as Tim stated,�With the Crankshaft Removed�, I�ve done it several times removing stuck or seized pistons on L&F Head 134�s. This saves the connecting rod from damage trying to pound the piston up through the top!� :o.....

This is a very nice looking 3A [ch128077][ch127997], Will be following your progress!...

Lee ;)


What Lee said..... Been there, done that.

Yes, the bore is smallest at the bottom due to less wear. But, it�s still the roughly same diameter as the rest of the cylinder was when it was first bored.

As a general rule pistons dont grow with wear, cylinders don�t shrink with wear,� if the crank is out of the way, plenty of room in a 134 Willys block.  :-?
Posted by: Lee
« on: December 19, 2018, 08:12:47 PM »

Quote
Also the piston won't come out the bottom. The bore has worn where the piston travels and the bottom of the bore is the smallest. They come out the top.

Yes they will  :D as Tim stated,�With the Crankshaft Removed�, I�ve done it several times removing stuck or seized pistons on L&F Head 134�s. This saves the connecting rod from damage trying to pound the piston up through the top!  :o.....

This is a very nice looking 3A [ch128077][ch127997], Will be following your progress!...

Lee ;)
Posted by: RICKG
« on: December 19, 2018, 08:02:27 PM »

Quote
Also the piston won't come out the bottom. The bore has worn where the piston travels and the bottom of the bore is the smallest. They come out the top.
I'll respectfully disagree Mtn-pistons can and will drop out the bottom w/crank removed.. Muley..
Posted by: GregL
« on: December 18, 2018, 06:17:18 AM »

Last one came out in pieces but there out!
Posted by: mtnman37879
« on: December 16, 2018, 11:53:27 PM »

Try some Sea Foam Deep Creep before you go to the hammer. When it comes to penetrating oils I am hard to impress and the sea foam has impressed me. Also the piston won't come out the bottom. The bore has worn where the piston travels and the bottom of the bore is the smallest. They come out the top.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: December 16, 2018, 07:14:57 PM »

I've taken them out through the bottom, but I had the crank out.� Not sure if there is enough room without the crankshaft out of the way.
Posted by: GregL
« on: December 16, 2018, 11:49:27 AM »

Quick question! Will the pistons come out the bottom? The back two pistons are seized. I�m thinking taking them out the bottom would do less damage!
Posted by: GregL
« on: November 26, 2018, 06:32:52 PM »

Pulled the head off today, aft cylinder looks like water damage, I think that�s the seized piston, the head gasket doesn�t look blown so ...? Won�t budge. Also have difficulty getting the distributer to move, remove!
Posted by: GregL
« on: November 10, 2018, 08:41:37 PM »

Got all the lug nuts off, will standardize the one oddball at some point down the road. Big milestone, engine is out, temperature here getting cold so things will be slowing down
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: November 04, 2018, 08:07:21 PM »

Interesting that your's were mixed on the same hub! I have 3 right hand hubs and one left.

Never take it to a tire shop without supervision!

The original left hand lug nuts have a little notch between the flats....not sure about the reproductions...
Posted by: stony
« on: November 04, 2018, 01:23:50 PM »

Been there, done that LOL!  Look for the �L� or �R�  on the stud, kind of hard to see sometimes.