Topics

1

Engine compartment / How loose is too loose for exhaust flapper

« on: July 17, 2026, 05:07:53 PM »

Hi there,
My engine has developed a noisy "TAP" RAP type of sound, an obvious exhaust leak at the manifold area. I checked the usual suspects, and eventually I could feel a blast of exhaust leaking by the gasket where the exhaust and intake manifold are bolted together. I figured I had to replace the gasket. I took the works off, but found no leak, but saw to my dismay that there is jet black soot coming out of the shaft where it pierces the casting and holds the flapper. It's pretty loose. I can shift it side to side maybe 0.025". Still, I have a hard time believing it could make that kind of racket.
The wear is in the shaft seemingly. Not so much the casting (or what appears to be some kind of bushing perhaps)

I guess it's too loose and worn, but would you agree it would allow that kind of noise to escape?
Ugh. I don't think it looks to easy to replace that shaft.

2

Engine compartment / Question: How far gone can a WO carb be to consider rebuilding it? Rusty...

« on: May 12, 2023, 09:23:20 PM »

Hi,
My CJ3A sat in woods for a few decades I think. The engine was frozen, and the WO carburetor was frozen too. I got another engine and it came with a Solex. For the most part I've been quite happy with the Solex. The only negatives I think are the sensitivity to fuel pressure (I keep it at 1.5 PSI with a Holly regulator) and tendency to empty out after a few days sitting requiring 15 seconds of engine cranking to fill it up before it fires). (That's the most annoying thing).

I'd like to get a WO on there.

So, of course, the WO has a cast iron throttle body (I guess that's what it's called) and a cast zinc upper body.
The upper body is in good shape and I think will respond well to a rebuild.
BUT,
The cast iron throttle body is rusted. The main shaft is frozen in the body. I tried penetrating fluid for many days. I gave up. Someone before me bent up the butterfly inside I guess from trying to free it up. I broke the screws off getting that throttle plate off.
I have no problem making a  new throttle shaft, but is it even possible to get the old one out? Is something this rusty worth making an attempt to save? Are there passages that are now no good due to corrosion? Is it a waste of time to mess with it?
Can I use propane heat to blast the body to free up the shaft? Is that a no-no?

I don't mind putting in labor...I have a machine shop I can use to make parts, but if experience of others says they cannot be saved, I'll move on.

Hope to get some input...

Thankyou!
Dave

3

Gearboxes and axles / I want to check and make sure ring gear fastening is ok

« on: April 06, 2023, 01:12:17 PM »

Hi there,
During my refurb a few years ago, I did some cleaning and seal replacement for my Dana 41 axle, but I did not check any of the ring gear bolts. Since then I've learned about ring gear bolts not staying in place, and indeed it looks like my front Dana 25 had some of those bolts come out in the past, and it destroyed things. The Dana 41 is runs great and is quiet, so I think it would be prudent to keep it that way by servicing these (sometimes) infamously loosening bolts.

I'm thinking of taking ring gear bolts out, cleaning them, and then reinstalling with some sort of loctite.
I'm thinking of not bothering with new retaining tabs.
Unless I get votes to reinstall new bending tabs?
I would like to use a removable type Loctite. I don't want the "red" stuff which requires heat.

What do you think?

Dave

4

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / What kind, where, opinions on jack for Jeep

« on: December 12, 2021, 09:15:33 PM »

I've been tooling around with no jack or lug wrench on my Willys. It turns out that I had about 3 psi in my tires (two years or so and I finally decided to check 'em), and I didn't even realize it....there was hardly a sidewall bulge (Those Indian made Speedways NDT's have quite a few plys apparently).
But, still, even if I have run-flats (haha) it still got me to thinking I'd like to get a jack in case I do have a flat, or sidewall slice or something.

So, I've begun to search for what I'd like to be a cool, high-on-the-utility-side-of-the-spectrum  tire/wheel/frame jack that will stay with the vehicle. I don't want a hydraulic bottle jack. I'd like it to be manual/mechanical. It needs to fit in the Jeep tool box too. Oh and it needs to be cheap. (I'm cheap...there I said it)

I found a neat, heavy duty OEM Humvee scissor jack on ebay, but they're kinda pricey, and only have a big round boss at the business end...I'd have to fabricate a pad to go under the axle or spring perch.

There are new scissor jacks all over the 'net, but they're all overseas cheapy looking. They don't look strong enough. Besides, most of the choices have slots for modern pinchwelded rocker panel cars.

Do any of you have ideas on what OEM jacks from a junkyard or ebay offering would be good for Jeep use?
Thanks for any opinions or comments!

5

"Modifications"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Incites / Help. Subjective opinions on color choices for Willys top

« on: October 11, 2021, 11:07:22 PM »

Some of you may have seen I'm restoring a Koenig half top.
The Jeeps original color scheme was Luzon Red with wake ivory wheels. I repainted it as close as practical with modern single stage paints. I like it a lot.
But now I'm having a crisis in how to paint the hard top. (this Jeep came to me with this top, and I've spent the whole summer fixing it...and I'm now painting it)

My plan was to paint the entire top the wake ivory color. I'm almost done. But someone close to me said it would look better with Luzon red doors. Oh damn. Now I'm plagued with doubt!

So after some ulcer time, I made up some pictures with different color combos.
I am no hand with editing software, so it's a hack. But if you squint it hopefully gives you the idea.

Which would you choose?

I'm really leaning toward just finishing in all wake ivory...(I'm so close to being done) but if something rises to the top, I'll reconsider...
THanks!
Dave

6

Engine compartment / Oil in vacuum portion of dual action fuel pump CJ3A

« on: July 11, 2021, 04:43:30 PM »

I took off my fuel pump from my CJ3A to investigate a ticking noise. (I suspect it "ticks" because I spaced it away from the block with a spacer and I think that created a gap between the arm and cam for part of the revolution)
I intended to try the pump with no spacer.

BUT what concerns me is I found engine oil in the vacuum tubes in the lower section of the pump. Alot of oil.  I'm thinking this should not be...Am I correct? I guess it's a ruptured diaphragm for the vacuum portion of the pump?

This was a "new" pump, I suspect an OMIX ada or Crown pump. It's got probably 4 to 6 hours of operation on it.

If someone can confirm there should be no oil in the vacuum circuit, I will take the pump apart and see what that diaphragm looks like.

Dang it.

7

Project Page for all other Jeeps / 2003 Jeep Rubicon Rust Repair

« on: December 12, 2020, 01:10:13 PM »

I thought I'd put a little blurb about my other Jeep, a 2003 Wrangler Rubicon. I bought it new and I think it's one of the first Rubicons (made in October 2002). It served as a daily driver for many years, through New England summers and winters. In the early years, a few times a season I would wash off winter road salt from the undercarriage, but as the years went by it became apparent that some heavy rust was creeping in. It turns out TJ Jeeps are infamous for rust, particularly horrible frame rot problems. I think the washings did help me avoid the worst of that problem as my frame itself is still solid. But last year a meticulous survey revealed that the front axle bracketry was in bad shape with rot holes showing through the the passenger side spring pocket. The upper control arm mount was paper thin in some spots too. I "stewed" on this discovery for a while and finally decided to fix it rather than get rid of the Jeep.

8

BODY and trim / Where to put hole in body side (for step)

« on: December 10, 2020, 03:54:24 PM »

Hi Folks,

I did not put the through hole (down by the lower edge) in the body side (each side) for the side step bracket. I'm thinking of doing so, then touching it up with my leftover paint. I'd like to do it before the paint dries up.

I need a dimension on where that hole should be...
How many inches back from the crease where the body angles inward?

I regret not doing this before I painted as I did maintain all other stock type holes and features. I could guess, but maybe someone has a dimension out there?

Any help appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave

9

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Fuel pump lever spring pressure seems excessive

« on: September 27, 2020, 09:35:40 PM »

Hi folks,
When I first got my L134 running, I had to buy a new fuel pump. I got a fuel/vacuum style pump as is appropriate for a 50 CJ3A. I think the part number was actually for a CJ3B, but it fits up perfectly and I adapted the vacuum lines to the wipers with no problem.
Anyway, I noticed it takes a huge effort to move the lever arm. This is the arm that sticks into the block so that the cam eccentric and move the arm up and down.
I was concerned but ran it thinking it must be normal.
When I took my engine apart for a rebuild, I noticed there is quite a bit of wear showing on the cam eccentric.
I don't know if this is normal or what.
Can anyone comment on whether they've noticed grooves in the cam eccentric from that fuel pump arm?
I'm not sure if I should swap to a lighter spring, or am I paranoid or what. My old pump was not original (and probably not rebuildable), so I don't know what might be normal.

A picture is attached but it's hard to see the wear. But it is grooved.
If you've got any comments, I'd appreciate it.

10

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Engine plate Generator hole steel bushing size

« on: August 02, 2020, 04:44:01 PM »

Hi folks,
My engine is at the machine shop and I'm cleaning up engine peripherals. My engine plate showed signs of having something welded to the passenger side hole...the generator mounting hole. There is nothing there but a hole and weld spatter. I ground down the remnants of the spatter, then I looked on the 'net and see that there should be a steel tube section, or bushing, or something welded to the plate. As near as I can tell it sticks out the backside a little bit.

I'm thinking of going back to a generator (I converted to alternator when I rebuilt the Jeep) sometime and of course this is the ideal time to fix that mount.

Can anyone tell me what size that bushing/washer/tube should be? Info on the I.D. of the tube and how far does it stick out the back would be helpful.

Thankyou!

dave

11

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Anyone still know where to get Sealed Power engine parts?

« on: June 27, 2020, 02:39:08 PM »

In my other recent thread, I took my engine apart and have found issues that have cascaded into me probably rebuilding the thing. I didn't want to do this but the valves are original and worn out, guides super worn out,  all piston rings broken, and it likely needs a sleeve, so that means new pistons.
I have been trying to gather some parts, and I'd prefer to go Sealed Power.
I just went through this for the bearings. I only found a few sellers left with stock of respected classic brands for bearings  but they were typically (in my opinion) at outrageous prices. So I ended up buying Crown and OMIX mains and rods bearings.

For the rest of the parts, I just embarked on a search for more name brands, like Sealed Power (Hastings I guess) for pistons, valves, guides, springs etc.
Well, I cannot find anything in stock anywhere. Not at Napa, RockAuto, Summit, or local parts store.
Walcks and the other Jeep suppliers seem to sell the Crown and OMIX ADA stuff.

Do you guys just go with Crown and OMIX ADA valves, guides, and springs?

I could be a bit irrational here, but I'd just like to get a warm fuzzy feeling that others have used these CROWN or OMIX parts successfully.

I will be visiting METALSHAPER Brian Hainer this coming Tuesday to see about machining, so I'll ask him too but in general I wonder if Sealed Power is done making Jeep engine parts.
DAve

12

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Low Oil Pressure Investigation...any tips?

« on: June 01, 2020, 09:37:54 PM »

Hi folks,
The saying goes you can't cheat death and taxes, but maybe they should add "and low oil pressure in a L134".
I've got a mystery L134 in my CJ3A with no numbers. STD pistons, and I fixed the oil jet last summer (to smaller jet size). After the oil jet repair, I still only see 2 or 3 PSI at hot idle (checked with two gauges) and maybe 20 psi when driving in high gear.
This spring, in the last few drives I've taken, the motor has developed a knock that is getting louder and louder. It happens when I'm in third gear, and I give it heavy throttle. I figured I need to park it and find out what's wrong. Since I've never been that far into the engine, today I removed the oil pump and measured all the specs according to the Universal shop manual. It easily meets all specifications. (both rotors, ID and OD, and end gap) I believe the pump is good.
In a fit of despair of not being able to drive the Jeep, I just dropped the pan to see what I can see. Nothing obvious yet. Rod caps all jiggle side to side a tiny bit, nuts and pal nuts all there. The plug is installed in the block by the oil pump pickup.
Eyeballing crank thrust shows less than 0.010".
With no obvious damage visible so far, does it sound reasonable to take the rod caps off one by one to see if anything is wiped? If they're not "wiped", is plastigage an okay "quick and dirty" way of checking clearance?
Do the same with main caps?
Does this sound reasonable?
I'm assuming I then need to check the cam journals/cam bores...
What do you all think? What else should I check?

13

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / "Year of Manufacture" license plates...using original antique plates....

« on: February 24, 2020, 12:51:25 PM »

Hiya Jeepers.
I just bid on some 1950 license plates for my Jeep. Not sure if I'll "win" them, but I plan on getting a set of old plates sometime to put on my Jeep.
One reason is that I like the look of original style license plates for old vehicles. Connecticut is kind of cool because in 1950, the size was not the standard 6 x 12" size we are familiar with today, rather they were 6 x 9.5" in size and even more interesting was the use of a small 3 tab metal plate indicating year with two digits. In connectictut, you are allowed to use "year of manufacture" plates as long as you bring them in for inspection to a DMV first. You fill out a form, they inspect, and if all is okay, you can bolt them onto your vehicle. You must keep your current plates and registration in the vehicle however (I run new "antique" plates which are ugly, so I'll stow them in the toolbox).

Soooo, all this leads up to my questions: Who here has done this?
Who here has "restored" tired old license plates?

If the plates I scavenge are in tough shape I hope to restore them....just looking for tips and tricks. Apparently even in 1950 CT used reflective paints....(CT was leading edge on license plates seemingly...they also pioneered aluminum plates in the 30's).

I'll post pics when I get a set of old plates....

14

Buy, Sell, Trade / Late L134 engine, Free

« on: November 24, 2019, 10:07:22 PM »

I have a late casting L134 engine,  block SD908756 free for taking.
I don't know what this engine came in, it does not have a stamping by waterpump.
The engine is complete but no head or intake/exhaust manifold.
This engine is STUCK and rusted shut. I have never had the pan off. It was filled with water when I took it out of my Jeep years ago, I drained everything and it's been sitting in my garage ever since. I do remember the coolant was still healthy green when I drained that, but there was lots of water in the pan, and in the cylinders.
The distributor is stuck too. I think I remember that it is probably 0.040" over on one of the piston tops that I could read.
I see NO signs of cracks anywhere, particularly under the distributor. But then again, I haven't given it a very high resolution look over either.
It comes with a CJ3A engine plate. The pan does NOT have a skid on it, which leads me to think it was an industrial engine or something.
So, please understand this is all I know...I don't know if it's rebuildable or what....keep this in mind!
It's currently on a little stand with casters, and I'd like to keep that, so it's the engine only.
I live in Granby Connecticut.
I want the whole thing gone, please no parts picking. Thanks!
contact me, Dave (squidtone) by email...squidtone@gmail.com

15

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Interesting observation about spare tire dampener

« on: April 17, 2017, 09:36:55 PM »

I thought I'd post about a very interesting observation I just discovered today.
I am in the midst of adding all the brackets and holes on my patched up 1950 CJ3A tub. In all my research I noticed that Willys mounted the spare tire on the passenger side of the body for most of the lifespan of the flatfender Jeeps, except for some small blip in the CJ2A run....but anyway, I noticed that some CJ's came with wood dampeners screwed to the side of the tub over the wheel opening. Today I thought I'd take a look at my original body side panels for evidence of the wood block...(Very happy I haven't thrown them out yet...I keep referring back to them during my resto).
And sure enough, I found the holes as well as a "signature" of where the wood block used to be due to corrosion and different color of paint. If you look at the pix, you can see where the block was to the right of the 6 inch ruler...it's at about a 45 deg angle.
But the interesting part is I noticed that the driver side panel had the very same holes in the very same mirrored spot. Everything matched up. See my attached pictures...
Now while my Jeep was extremely worn out, it had remarkably few changes in it's life. The other holes are from me drilling out spotwelds, but close inspection reveals the dampener holes are indeed have no burrs from drilling...I'm sure they're factory stamped.
The most info I found about these dampeners is on the CJ3B page, but they don't mention anything about the holes being on both sides....Wondering if anyone else can comment on whether they too have holes in the driver side of their CJ3A's?
So that's my observation, and just kinda cool to find this stuff. I'll duplicate the holes in my new panels.