Messages

1

Engine compartment / Re: How loose is too loose for exhaust flapper

« on: July 29, 2026, 11:17:46 PM »

Hi thanks for the responses...I've been away (Cape Cod) for a vacation, hence the delay in responding...
I must sheepishly admit that I may have gotten it a little bit wrong...I took apart the manifolds and discovered two of the 4 bolts were a bit loose...and there was suspicious black soot in the rectangular gasket in the portion that faces toward the center of the Jeep, that is, the passenger side. See the picture of the gasket.
Rather than stop here however, I decided to keep going and fix the sloppy flapper shaft.
I've been getting hit with a ton of little fixes in my "fleet", something like death by a thousand cuts, so I decided to cheap out and go minimal in my repair. I only needed a shaft and maybe bushings. I didn't want a (ultimately after shipping) $50 dollar kit. I bought a shaft only from QTM. In a nice February 1955 manila envelope.

I tried drilling out the weldment on the original flapper but it was too hard. I ended up using an ancient dremel tool with a 1" cutoff wheel and ground the weld down to the shaft. It went way quicker that I thought. See the picture of the ground out weld (still in the manifold). The shaft was easily tapped out after grinding.
See picture of worn shaft. Yep, it was really loose and I'm sure contributed to the noise.
I put in the new shaft, lined it up, and welded the flapper to it in place. The original shaft bushings are not perfect, but ok. It's much tighter now. All good.
I put the bimetallic spring back , smacked the shield on, then the counterweight, and snugged it in.
New gaskets, buttoned it up.
Nice, NICE, nice and quiet now...I think the quietest it's ever been. Ahh the joy of the classic Go Devil fan noise is far above the noise floor now.
Thanks for your comments!

2

Engine compartment / How loose is too loose for exhaust flapper

« on: July 17, 2026, 05:07:53 PM »

Hi there,
My engine has developed a noisy "TAP" RAP type of sound, an obvious exhaust leak at the manifold area. I checked the usual suspects, and eventually I could feel a blast of exhaust leaking by the gasket where the exhaust and intake manifold are bolted together. I figured I had to replace the gasket. I took the works off, but found no leak, but saw to my dismay that there is jet black soot coming out of the shaft where it pierces the casting and holds the flapper. It's pretty loose. I can shift it side to side maybe 0.025". Still, I have a hard time believing it could make that kind of racket.
The wear is in the shaft seemingly. Not so much the casting (or what appears to be some kind of bushing perhaps)

I guess it's too loose and worn, but would you agree it would allow that kind of noise to escape?
Ugh. I don't think it looks to easy to replace that shaft.

3

Engine compartment / Re: Question: How far gone can a WO carb be to consider rebuilding it? Rusty...

« on: May 18, 2023, 10:58:16 PM »

That's very kind. I appreciate it. When I come up with a plan of attack I'll probably pick your brain.
I used some gauge pins to determine that I could get a 0.314" pin in the bore. Not terrible I guess but of course that doesn't measure if the bore is egg shaped.
You mentioned that some of these castings have the throttle bore offset from the boss, and indeed, the one I have has the bore very close to the edge of the boss. There is only a 0.050" wall thickness at the thinnest. If I want to bore out the boss for a 0.375" bushing, I think the resulting thin wall of the boss after boring will be too thin.
I'm wondering if I should bias the position of thetoward the center of the boss, then drill the throttle bore in the correct location. I'd have to press in a solid piece of (insert type of material here) and then bore the throttle shaft hole. The bushing will be quite thin at that thin side of the boss, but that's the compromise.
Is brass ok for bushings?

4

Engine compartment / Re: Question: How far gone can a WO carb be to consider rebuilding it? Rusty...

« on: May 16, 2023, 10:26:46 PM »

Scoutpilot,
I appreciate your valuable experience here.
I believe I understand your first point: I basically should machine counterbores for sleeves. Do not bore all the way into the "throat".
The parts I have are indeed egg shaped.
I own a nice old precision bench top CNC, and I also have access to a Bridgeport. I have some Starrett indicators, and I have the tools I need I think. (I may have to order a couple things...working on it). I'm not a "machinist", but I've been machining for a few decades as an amateur. I will think about making a fixture to mount the casting and get the shaft bores coaxial with the machine.
First of course I'll assess the feasibility of sleeving the casting (how much meat is there).
I'll report back.
Thankyou

5

Engine compartment / Re: Question: How far gone can a WO carb be to consider rebuilding it? Rusty...

« on: May 14, 2023, 10:08:50 PM »

Scoutpilot, Thankyou for the additional input. Of course now that you mention it, it seems crazy the shaft would be steel. But there is heavy corrosion (pits) on the section where the throttle blade resided. I suppose the "trash" (acorns, seeds, n' stuff deposited by rodents) that sat there for years corroded even the normally low corrosion nickel/brass.
The shaft ends that reside in the body are around 0.3075" up to 0.309".
I'll use gauge pins at work to check the bores, but I expect they're worn beyond spec.
I have to think this through to be sure I have the "chops" to execute making new parts; I expect I'll have to make a shaft, and source a new throttle blade.
Well, I feel pretty good I at least got the carb taken down to it's elemental bits with not too much damage.
Thanks
dave

6

Engine compartment / Re: Question: How far gone can a WO carb be to consider rebuilding it? Rusty...

« on: May 14, 2023, 05:04:11 PM »

Positive developments:
I got the shaft out of the throttle body. It was a little embarrassing how easy it came out, although I wonder if sitting for a couple years after being doused with penetrant helped. A little heat and it broke free and came out. I had to grind the remains of the throttle blade screws to slip it out.

I also was able to take apart the rest of the carb and all the screw caps and inner brass parts came out. (Not shown, but they all came free.)

I am pondering how to re-do the throttle shaft...I didn't realize it's steel. I would consider re-using it, but the bracket at the end is moving on the shaft. I guess it's a double "D" shaft end with the bracket fitting over it, then it's peened over.
I looked online to see if parts are available new, and I don't see anything that matches. I'm thinking I'll get a piece of steel rod, and make a duplicate shaft I can try to make a duplicate double "D" and peen the old bracket on.
I'll clean everything and see how big the throttle shaft bores are.

Dave

7

Engine compartment / Re: Question: How far gone can a WO carb be to consider rebuilding it? Rusty...

« on: May 13, 2023, 08:37:11 AM »

Scoutpilot,
Thanks for the input. Good to know. I'll take apart the bowl casting and see how far I can get with those threaded parts.
I will use some light heat on the shaft of the main body and see if I can loosen up the shaft...

I rebuilt an Allis Chalmers Zenith carb (cast iron) some years ago and I was able to remove all the threaded jets and stuff. I was shocked I was able to rebuild it, but it wasn't frozen like this one, hence my questions about it.

I'll report back.

8

Engine compartment / Question: How far gone can a WO carb be to consider rebuilding it? Rusty...

« on: May 12, 2023, 09:23:20 PM »

Hi,
My CJ3A sat in woods for a few decades I think. The engine was frozen, and the WO carburetor was frozen too. I got another engine and it came with a Solex. For the most part I've been quite happy with the Solex. The only negatives I think are the sensitivity to fuel pressure (I keep it at 1.5 PSI with a Holly regulator) and tendency to empty out after a few days sitting requiring 15 seconds of engine cranking to fill it up before it fires). (That's the most annoying thing).

I'd like to get a WO on there.

So, of course, the WO has a cast iron throttle body (I guess that's what it's called) and a cast zinc upper body.
The upper body is in good shape and I think will respond well to a rebuild.
BUT,
The cast iron throttle body is rusted. The main shaft is frozen in the body. I tried penetrating fluid for many days. I gave up. Someone before me bent up the butterfly inside I guess from trying to free it up. I broke the screws off getting that throttle plate off.
I have no problem making a  new throttle shaft, but is it even possible to get the old one out? Is something this rusty worth making an attempt to save? Are there passages that are now no good due to corrosion? Is it a waste of time to mess with it?
Can I use propane heat to blast the body to free up the shaft? Is that a no-no?

I don't mind putting in labor...I have a machine shop I can use to make parts, but if experience of others says they cannot be saved, I'll move on.

Hope to get some input...

Thankyou!
Dave

9

Gearboxes and axles / Re: I want to check and make sure ring gear fastening is ok

« on: April 07, 2023, 08:53:56 AM »

Thanks for the replies.
I did some looking on the 'net and see metalshaper has opinions on this topic.
He mentions some fasteners in the 40's and 50's were not great (at least some that Willys used) and I can attest that the fasteners used on Allis Chalmers tractors from that era were pretty bad. I encountered many original fasteners that would not hold torque due to stretching.

I will open it up in a few weeks and see what's there. If all is tight I may just leave it alone. Otherwise I'll probably fiddle with it. I've owned old cars and all my life and all suffered from neglected rear axles...I want to be proactive in keeping this one tight and quiet. Can't help it, it's in my nature!

10

Gearboxes and axles / I want to check and make sure ring gear fastening is ok

« on: April 06, 2023, 01:12:17 PM »

Hi there,
During my refurb a few years ago, I did some cleaning and seal replacement for my Dana 41 axle, but I did not check any of the ring gear bolts. Since then I've learned about ring gear bolts not staying in place, and indeed it looks like my front Dana 25 had some of those bolts come out in the past, and it destroyed things. The Dana 41 is runs great and is quiet, so I think it would be prudent to keep it that way by servicing these (sometimes) infamously loosening bolts.

I'm thinking of taking ring gear bolts out, cleaning them, and then reinstalling with some sort of loctite.
I'm thinking of not bothering with new retaining tabs.
Unless I get votes to reinstall new bending tabs?
I would like to use a removable type Loctite. I don't want the "red" stuff which requires heat.

What do you think?

Dave

11

Your CJ-3A Project / Re: 50 CJ3A "Nuthin' Fancy"

« on: December 13, 2022, 01:05:03 PM »

Thanks!
Now I have to stew on painting the top Luzon Red....
Probably won't do it....the ivory on the top came out super nice and I don't want to scuff it down!

12

Your CJ-3A Project / Re: 50 CJ3A "Nuthin' Fancy"

« on: December 04, 2022, 09:19:10 PM »

Hi folks.
Update post.
I started a topic a year ago on what color combo to paint the half hard top. I decided to paint the top "ivory", except the doors and door jambs. Well, I thought all along I might like the rear panel and corners to be body color ("luzon" red). A few weeks ago, I took the panels off the Jeep and scuffed them down and painted them. It was alot of work because I don't have alot of room, I had to remove the windows out of their gaskets, and it's getting cold. But I got it done and it's all back together. I have to admit I'm not quite sure I like it better or not. But I'm stuck with it now!
It's fine. I still want to run no top at all in the summer, but the top is NOT that much fun to remove. And it's heavy. And I have no room. BUT, the heat sure feels good toolin' around town when it's cold out! I did a bunch of errands today and got quite a few dudes stopping to chat about the Jeep. One guy had just bought a CJ2A a few weeks ago and I think he appreciated seeing something somewhat "complete".
I took a few shots today so here's what it looks like:
I'm enjoying it. Hope to get some good drives before the salt trucks come out.

13

Your CJ-3A Project / Re: WO CARB SWAPPED FOR SOLEX

« on: October 20, 2022, 05:28:00 PM »

It's nice to know you've had a good experience with the latest SOLEX carb offered.
These carbs are maligned by many, but I have to say my mystery SOLEX (came with my Jeep, don't know it's history/age) has been rock solid. I've never had it apart and it performs beautifully. The only complaint I have is evaporation of gas when the Jeep sits: If the Jeep sits for a week or two, it takes a good 10-15 seconds to run the starter to fill the carb. Then it starts right up and idles beautifully.
Good luck with it!
Dave

14

Electrical Systems / Re: Signal Lights

« on: August 17, 2022, 10:33:43 PM »

Tchara,
I have observed something similar with my signalstat 900.

I use a flasher designed for LED's (which I presume means it does not rely on certain resistance in the lamp circuit to have a correctly timed flash rate). The flasher module is an AMAZON special "CEC" brand meant to use with LED lamps. (I use LEDS for my grille, and regular filament bulbs in the tail lamps).

When I signal, the indicator lamp flashes normally in the signal stat unit. When I turn off the signal stalk back to center, the indicator lamp continues to flash about 6 or 7 times, and each time the indicator gets dimmer and dimmer, and then it stops.
DUring those 6 or 7 flashes, the lamps (both front and back) do not flash. SO in my case it's just the flasher can supplying a strange withering signal for a few cycles to the indicator. I just live with it.
Maybe it IS your flasher module...
Good luck
dave



GOod luck, I

15

Engine compartment / Re: Distributor Issues

« on: August 17, 2022, 10:24:25 PM »

Hey Shark49
(sorry late response!)
Yes good point, the HEI is the epitome of reliability. It'd be nice if someone could take an Iron Duke HEI and adapt it to a L134 distributor base.
As for the internal vs external resistor for a 12V coil, I went with an external ballast resistor and regular coil because you can take advantage of a bypass "hot" (during the use of the "start" position, (key or floor button) to the coil for extra strong spark for cold starts.

If you do find a used distributor, I found that they are quite easy to take apart to replace the bushings. Sintered bronze bushings can be found at a good hardware store, and the rest of the guts are easy to clean and put back together.

Good luck, I hope you find a good solution!
dave